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Fashion in Film
Contributions by Drake Stutesman, Mary Ann Caws, Ula Lukszo, Giuliana Bruno, Caroline Evans, Jane Marie Gaines, Stella Bruzzi, Maura Spiegel, Diana Diamond, Jacqueline Reich, Kristin Hole, Sarah Berry and E. Ann Kaplan
Published by: Indiana University Press
376 Pages, 90 b&w illus.
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The vital synergy between dress and the cinema has been in place since the advent of film. Broaching topics such as vampires, noir, and Marie Antoinette looks, Fashion in Film uncovers the way in which the alliance of these two powerhouse industries use myriad cultural influences—shaping narrative, national identity, and all points in between. Contributor essays address international films from early cinema to the present, drawing on the classic and the innovative. This abundantly illustrated collection reveals that fashion in conjunction with film must be understood in a different way from fashion tout simple.
Acknowledgments
Introduction: Fashion Shows / Adrienne Munich
Part 1. Fashioning Film
1. Costume Design, or, What Is Fashion in Film? / Drake Stutesman
2. What to Wear in a Vampire Film / Mary Ann Caws
3. Noir Fashion and Noir as Fashion / Ula Lukszo
4. Surface, Fabric, Weave: The Fashioned World of Wong Kar-wai / Giuliana Bruno
Part 2. Filming Fashion
5. The Walkies: Early French Fashion Shows as a Cinema of Attractions / Caroline Evans
6. Wanting to Wear Seeing: Gilbert Adrian at MGM / Jane M. Gaines
7. "It will be a magnificent obsession": Femininity, Desire, and the New Look in 1950s Hollywood Melodrama / Stella Bruzzi
8. Adornment in the Afterlife of Victorian Fashion / Maura Spiegel
9. Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette: Costumes, Girl Power, and Feminism / Diana Diamond
Part 3. Fashioning National Identities
10. Slave to Fashion: Maculinity, Suits, and the Maciste Films of Italian Silent Cinema / Jacqueline Reich
11. The Stars and Stripes in Fashion Films / Adrienne Munich
12. Does Dress Tell the Nation's Story? Fashion, History, and Nation in the Films of Fassbinder / Kristin Hole
13. Subversive Habits: Minority Women in Mani Ratnam's Roja and Dil Se / Sarah Berry
Part 4. Epilogue: After Fashion
14. Un-Fashionable Age: Clothing and Unclothing the Older Woman's Body on Screen / E. Ann Kaplan
List of Contributors
Index
Adrienne Munich is Professor of English at Stony Brook University. She is author of Andromeda's Chains: Gender and Interpretation in Victorian Literature and Art and Queen Victoria's Secrets and co-editor of the journal Victorian Literature and Culture.
"Fashion in Film is a recommended pick for arts collections strong in fashion as well as film libraries."
~Midwest Book Review
"The individual essays work together effectively and are, for the most part, free of the jargon that sometimes mars both film and cultural analyses. . . . Recommended.November 2011"
~Choice
"Adrienne Munich has edited a compelling collection of scholarly articles exploring the intense relationship between film and fashion, devoted to topics as various as vampire fashion, the adaptation of the New Look in 1950s Hollywood melodrama and fashion shows in French film. A stunning look at the enduring fascination of what to wear in the dream world that is film."
~Elizabeth Wilson, author of Adorned in Dreams
"Munich has woven together a wonderful collection that lays bare not only the long standing interdependency between fashion and film, but also their interchangeability as sources of inspiration."
~Louise Wallenberg, Director of the Center for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University
"This important anthology meanders between the histories of cinema and fashion, and beyond, to deliver fresh perspectives and approaches to a subject that is gathering a momentum. The wide-ranging essays reveal the complexity of fashion in film as an area of study, carefully considering film costume and fashion as separate yet deeply intertwined entities. Fashion is here addressed as an aesthetic form, as a signifier of the social, cultural and political, and, delightfully, also as a particular parallel to - if not the very fabric of - film. Fashion in Film should become an indispensable reader."
~Marketa Uhlirova, Director/Curator, Fashion in Film Festival